High Power LED Genie V2 Driver
Need help choosing which LED to use? Read this article.
The LED Genie is a buck style LED driver which has many advanced features which are not found in other drivers on the market. The biggest feature of the LED Genie is that it can be ordered in any level of current regulation, not just standard set values. This gives you complete control over the design of your light. For example you can run a 1 amp rated LED at 600mA for longer burn times or even 1250 mA if your design can deal with the extra heat generated when over driving the current. Another great feature which helps deal with the heat produced out of water or when over driving is the built in thermal protection. When the Genie detects the LED's are warmer than normal it will only dim the light the required amount to help keep the light within safe limits. Read below to learn of the full list of features.
LED Genie V2 features
The LED Genie can be ordered in kit form or also as pictured above as a fully assembled unit ready to be used in your next light. The pre made units come with screw terminals to make installation a breeze as no soldering is required , just insert the wires and screw the clamps shut.
Size: The PCB is 33mm in diameter. It can be easily installed inside a D cell sized maglite or any MR11 sized light. Height varies based on the maximum current you wish to order as some parts are upgraded for high current support. For 8amps and under the height can be made to be around 25mm.
Input Voltage: Battery voltage can be anywhere between 5 volts to a maximum of 40v DC. I strongly suggest you keep the battery to be close to the forward voltage of your LED string as this will yeld best efficiency results.
Max LED Current: Any value up to 12 amps max has been tested. Currents over 4 amps will require minor heatsinking of a single part.
How to Order
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Will the LED Genie raise the voltage above the battery voltage, is it a boost LED driver ? No, the LED Genie is a buck design which is a lot more efficient than boost designs, giving your light longer burn times than compared to a boost driver. This means the LED Genie can only reduce the voltage, not increase it. Your battery needs to be at, or above the LED's forward voltage spec for the LED to reach its full brightness. An example of this is 3 cree XRE LEDS in series which requires 3.7 x 3 = 11.1 volts or higher from the battery for full brightness. Each LED has a 3.7 volt forward voltage. You can run these very well on a 10 cell nimh pack aka 12volts as for 90% of the time it will be 12 volts or above and as the battery goes flat below the 11.1 volts the light will still work at a dimmed level of light and give a longer burn time as the LED will then use less current as the voltage drops.
Can the temp threshold be adjusted or disabled ? Yes, just cut the temp sensor off the pcb to disable any monitoring. If you want to adjust its threshold, you can adjust the value of a single resistor. This can be changed at any time even when the light is in use with a variable resistor. This allows you to fine tune the temperature protection depending on where you mount the sensor, or if your building a DIY bike light which does not have water to cool the light head. When you stop riding your bike, the air flow over the light will be lower and the light may need to dim to protect itself until you start to ride again.
Picture of the heat sink from the rear, drilled out to reduce weight and also to create room for the cut down LED Genie which has the temp sensor positioned to read directly from the rear of the LED mounted area.
This picture shows the LED's glued to the heat sink with the 8 degree lens assembly.
This picture is of the finished CNC machined light head with the LED fitted into a MR11 sized housing. A great light head which is small, light weight and very powerful. The board can fit into any mr11 light head or D cell sized maglite.